• Not to Knot Slings

    Happy New Year Tech Tip

    14:40pm : 07.01.2013

    Hi All, hope you had a Great Xmas and New Year with more great plans and resolutions to have and keep throughout 2013.

    I thought I would start out the New year with a Tech Tip that was provided to me by none other than Australian hard man Nathan Hoette. It has opened my eyes considerably and although I knew the implications of falling on slings (internal injuries), I never knew how bad and how you could fail them so readily. I have been guilty of knotting my slings in the past but will NEVER do it again. Please beware of standing up to the anchors when cleaning routes or dogging moves on slings.

    Copied from DMM website :

    Even a 60 cm, factor 1 fall on to an open Dyneema® sling can generate enough impact force (16.7 kN). Tying a knot in a Dyneema® sling weakens it even further leading to sling failure in a factor 1 fall .

    For perspective, most leader falls are between 4 – 7 kNs. Forces above 10kN will start to cause internal injuries.

    For the full story read this excellent DMM article and watch the video for test results at the end.

    http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/

    Climb Safe.
    Gareth