BLOG

FREE EVENT FOR THE WA CLIMBING COMMUNITY!

The Hangout will be showing REEL ROCK 9 – VALLEY UPRISING on Saturday 6th December!

Reel Rock 9

…….so if you didn’t get to see it the first time (at Cinema Paradiso), or you loved it so much that you want to see it again, then come along!

WHERE: The Hangout, 12 White Street, Bayswater WA

DATE: Saturday 6 December 2014

TIME: Movie starts at 7.30pm, however most of the walls will remain open (we will need a few to set up the big screen!) until the movie starts for any of you wanting to climb first!

COST: NOTHING! It is free!

WHY: For Fun! It is The Hangout’s way of saying “thanks to WA climbers for being so fab”  ……it is our festive gift to Perth’s climbers!

WHAT TO BRING: Feel free to bring a bean bag or boulder mat etc so that you are comfortable during the movie. You are also welcome to bring food along as the movie will be around dinner time! (you are welcome to order in any delivered food such as pizza that you might like, or you might prefer to bring a picnic or use our BBQ (in the courtyard) to cook up a storm! )

FREEBIES: We have some wonderful prizes and freebies to giveaway on the night! We will also be getting in the festive spirit by offering some great discounts on the night too!

To win great prizes “like” and “share” the facebook post HERE!

We will be giving away:

Sterling RopeSterling Evolution Velocity

9.8mm 50m Rope

 

 

Evolv NexxoEvolv Nexxo

Ultra-Performance Climbing Shoe

 

 

Verto 26 PackThe North Face

Verto 26 Pack

 

 

UniversoPetzl Universo

Belay Device with Biner

& Petzl T-Shirts

 

Clif Shot BlokA stack of Clif Shot Bloks

from Clif Bar

 

 

MORE INFO: Updates available on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheHangoutIndoorRockClimbingCentre

THE MOVIE:

Valley Uprising!

The greatest untold story of American counterculture is that of the Yosemite Valley rock climbers. For the past fifty years, Yosemite’s massive cliffs have drawn explorers and madmen to leave materialism behind and venture onto the high, lonesome granite.

The larger-than-life characters of Yosemite carved out an “extreme bohemian” lifestyle in the Valley, living on red wine and boiled potatoes, clashing with National Park authorities, and pioneering the boldest climbs on Earth. The torch has been passed down across three generations of climbers; through rivalries, tragedies and triumphs, the art of Yosemite climbing has advanced beyond anyone’s imagination.

Valley Uprising is the riveting, unforgettable tale of this bold tradition: half a century of struggle against the laws of gravity — and the laws of the land.

 

nexxo“The EVOLV NEXXO!” With this new beaut shoe still smelling fresh off the production line and from the mind of Chris Sharma (all round good guy and not bad climber), we gave 4 X Bouldering Champ and all around Legend “Karl Laczko” a test pair about a month ago to put through the paces, this is what he had to say about them.

“I’ve had a few pairs of Evolv shoes in the past but the new Evolv Nexxo is definitely something different. The Nexxo is the next in the line of shoes designed by Chris Sharma and Evolv and is an aggressive slipper with an asymmetric, precision toe with a velcro strap to secure the heel. It has an aggressive heel, rubber covering the top of the toe and that pleasing suction fit. And I have been suitably impressed by it’s performance during the month or so that I’ve had it.
I haven’t really had a pair of aggressive shoes before apart from some Sharmans that were slightly too small and never got broken in properly. So when I got the Nexxo’s I made sure the same thing didn’t happen and I ended up going a whole 1.5 sizes up from my Anasazis before I was happy with the fit.

The shoe has quite a narrow, low volume fit which may suit some more than others. When I first got mine I thought that the heel might be a little loose due to this but I haven’t had any problems with it. The velcro strap seems to be doing a good job of keeping my foot in place and heel hooks have been comfortable and reliable.

For me, the best feature about the Nexxo is the toe. It has the same ‘Knuckle Box’ and ‘Love Bump’ as the Sharman making it comfortable, it has an awesomely precise edge for micro edging and is also super sensitive while still providing maximum power. The Toe is also slightly less aggressive than the Sharman making it more versatile on straight walls and even possibly slab while still being great on roofs. I definitely found the nexxos helped me use the small, precise foot holds on one outdoor boulder that was shutting me down at the time.

So, I would recommend the Nexxo to anyone who wants an aggressive shoe that is powerful, precise, comfortable and flexible in climbing style. They are a great shoe.”

___________________________________________

Chris Sharma in Perth!

The day the world’s most adored and admired rock climbing star came to Perth!

Chris Sharma is such an admirable ambassador for the sport/lifestyle of climbing. He is humble, down to earth and a good bloke. On Wednesday night Chris described climbing, and his love for it, in a way that we all related to. He loves it for all the same reasons that we do!

Chris Sharma's Australian TourThe idea of THE GOD OF ROCK Chris Sharma coming to Perth was inconceivable ….or so we thought! When we heard that Chris was coming to Australia we were almost in disbelief. When we heard that his tour was going to include Western Australia we couldn’t contain ourselves.

Chris Sharma squeezing his "Hangout Hand Rock"!

Chris Sharma squeezing his “Hangout Hand Rock”!

On Wednesday 11th Sept 2013 the improbable came true! A few hundred West Australians sat in awe as Chris Sharma spoke about his life as a climber and shared photos and footage of his experiences. Following his talk Chris answered questions for about an hour.  It was wonderful ….but like insatiable kids in a candy store we didn’t want our “Sharma experience” to end, and we could have asked him questions for hours more. Fortunately those with VIP tickets were able to spend a few more hours in his company sipping wine and beer, eating snacks and talking about …..well climbing of course!

Living legend Chris Sharma (left), chats to WA climber & MC Logan Barber.

Living legend Chris Sharma (left), chats to WA climber & MC Logan Barber.

It was wonderful to have a fellow West Australian as MC for the evening.

Highly accomplished climber Logan Barber did an amazing job at introducing and talking to Chris. I am not quite sure how Logan remained so composed while talking to the most famous rock climber alive in front of an audience! I on the other hand was suddenly shy (which I don’t think has ever happened to me before J ) just shaking Chris’ hand and introducing myself!   I know that it sounds silly to be reduced to quivery knees and mousey voice when just meeting someone …..but I was just so in awe! Climbing is so much more than a “spot of exercise” and a hobby.  It positively influences  your life, your body and the way you look at ANY wall or vertical structure :) ! Climbing takes you to great places, pushes you to be better and stronger, and connects you with a wonderful community of great people. So meeting Chris Sharma was so much more meaningful to me than meeting a famous movie star or performer. I sense that most of the audience was equally as awestruck as I was. Instead of being our usual rowdy selves we all sat quietly grinning from ear to ear, in deep respect and admiration as Chris spoke. Our parents would have been proud of, (and no doubt mystified by), our “best behaviour”!  :)

So what do you do when the Chris

Sharma night comes to an end? You climb! People were so amped about climbing that we basically had no other choice other than to go and open The Hangout for a late night session. At 1.30am when Gareth and I left the gym (still smiling), there were still people climbing :).

A little bit of lead climbing to go with the bouldering, top-roping and Schmooling!

A little bit of lead climbing to go with the bouldering, top-roping and Schmooling!

Thank you to all the guys from Indoor Climbing Productions and Walltopia who brought the biggest legend of climbing to Australia! Thank you Chris for sharing your experiences with us!ICP & Walltopia

 

 

We are proud to use and stock Indoor Climbing Productions products. They are Australian made and awesome!

Thank you Indoor Climbing Productions and Walltopia!

Thank you Indoor Climbing Productions and Walltopia!

 

__________________________________________________________________________

 

Rope types and their falls explained:

1215 :: 27.01.2013

Disclaimer: This is a brief view of ropes and there fall catching capabilities and is in no way complete, there is a lot more to know and understand before jumping on the sharp end. This is compiled with my knowledge and experience and should not be taken as gospel. Do your own research and study and always climb within your abilities and only with full knowledge of all of your equipment.

Ropes for lead climbing should only ever be dynamic. You should NEVER lead climb on semi-static rope; any lead fall on semi-static will likely put you in hospital or worse.

There are three types of Dynamic ropes:

The Single ropeSingle Rope

The most common, this rope is used as a single strand. It is best adapted to difficult routes which are fairly straight-line, easy routes without change-over belays, and where descent is not by abseil. It is in particular the rope for sport climbing.

Half ropes or DoublesHalf Ropes

A ‘rope’ formed of 2 strands used together of which the leader is tied into both but, unlike twin ropes, two seconds may each be tied into just one of the strands. The leader clips only one strand into each runner so as to reduce drag. Half ropes are recommended for mountaineering, wandering lines and long ascents where abseil descent is necessary. In addition they offer better protection against stonefall or falling on an arete; to limit the drag, and thus the fall factor, you can clip the strands separately

And Twin ropesTwin Ropes

These ropes are always used with the two strands together, remaining parallel. Each climber ties into both strands and these are always clipped together. Its advantage over a single rope is that it allows for abseils as long as the rope. It is lighter than half rope but does not allow for separate strand clipping.

TESTING:
All dynamic ropes have to be tested for conformity to the Standard EN 892 in a test tower at a fall factor 1.77 (see below for fall factors explained).

Single and twin ropes are tested with a mass of 80kg. A single rope, must resist at least 5 successive falls, and both strands of a twin rope combined, must resist at least 12 successive falls.

2. Half ropes are tested with a 55kg mass on one strand. It must resist 5 successive falls. Why 55 kg?Because ropes which hold 5 falls with 55kg in practice hold 2 falls with 80kg, which has been allowed as sufficient security for a half rope which is not used to hold repeated falls on one strand.

..~~.. ..~~~~~.. ..~~..

*Factor fall explained: Generally only possible in multi-pitch climbing and whilst on lead, the fall factor( f ) is the ratio of the height ( h ) a climber falls before the climber’s rope begins to stretch and the rope length ( L ) available to absorb the energy of the fall.

f=h/L

Confused? (Ignoring rope stretch)

a) If you climb 5m above a belay placing gear at say 4m and fall you will fall 2m (1m to the piece of protection and 1 more below it) on 5m of rope.

f = 2/5

f = 0.4 Not necessarily a bad fall.

b) If you climb 5m above a belay without any gear placement and fall you will fall 10m (5 to the belay and 5 more below it) on just 5m of rope.

f = 10/5

f = 2 A factor 2 is the worst kind of fall you can apply to a rope (and belay).

With factors in mind, always place gear or clip bolts as soon as possible when leaving a belay; it’s not the time to be thinking about running it out, not even just a little.

Climb Safe.

Gareth

Acknowledgments: Beal Planet, Wikipedia.

 

 

A Little History Lesson – Wolfgang Gullich.

18:00 :: 18/01/2013

Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992), was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany, and is widely considered to be one of the best sport climbers in history.

Wolfgang was responsible for 4 grade step-ups with the world’s first 8b(31) (Kanal Im Rücken, 1984), 8b+(32) (Punks In The Gym, Apr 1985), 8c(33) (Wall street, 1987), and 9a(35) (Action Directe, Aug 1991). He took climbing grades from 30 to 35 in 7 years, it was then 10 long years until Chris Sharma upped the grade to 36 with Realization, or Biographie.

The campus board was invented by Wolfgang Güllich in 1988 while he was training for a new route, Action Directe, which requires extreme dynamic finger strength. The first campus board was hung at a university in a gym called The Campus Centre. Hence the term “campus” has been applied to the name of the training board, training method, and style of climbing, or “campusing”.

He broke his back falling off the Master’s Edge at Millstone Quarry in Derbyshire, England but when he recovered climbed Separate Reality in Yosemite National Park, USA (1986). Climbing without a rope, he negotiated a twenty foot horizontal crack in an overhanging roof (as pictured).

He was also a climbing double for Sylvester Stallone in the movie Cliffhanger.

On August 29, 1992 Wolfgang’s car veered off the Autobahn between Munich and Nuremberg. Two days later he died in a hospital in Ingolstadt, never having regained consciousness.

Climbing lost a legend that day. Think of this man the next time you pull hard on our campus board.

 

OUR CRAZY CLEARANCE SALE ITEMS JUST GOT CHEAPER

11:00am : 14.01.2013
• BD Harnesses (old models) $29.95 L, XL and XXL only (Lotus not included).

• BD Lotus Harness $74.95 L, XS and S only -was $129.95.

• Arcteryx Harnesses already massively reduced and now take a further 20% off across the entire range. Very limited sizes

• Defy Ex Demo 1 pair only size 13.5US NOW $59.95

• Evolv Elektra Ex Demo 1 pair only size 9US (ladies) $59.95

• Evolv Pontas 1 pair only size 5US NOW $49.95

• Evolv Predators all size 6US NOW $39.95

• Mad Rock Approach Shoes 1 pair only sz 12US NOW $59.95

NO HOLDS, First Come, First Served. Can be bought online at https://the-hangout.myshopify.com/ (can be picked up to avoid freight if you are a local + Free freight on orders over $99 still applies)

 

Happy New Year Tech Tip

14:40pm : 07.01.2013

Hi All, hope you had a Great Xmas and New Year with more great plans and resolutions to have and keep throughout 2013.

I thought I would start out the New year with a Tech Tip that was provided to me by none other than Australian hard man Nathan Hoette. It has opened my eyes considerably and although I knew the implications of falling on slings (internal injuries), I never knew how bad and how you could fail them so readily. I have been guilty of knotting my slings in the past but will NEVER do it again. Please beware of standing up to the anchors when cleaning routes or dogging moves on slings.

Copied from DMM website :

Even a 60 cm, factor 1 fall on to an open Dyneema® sling can generate enough impact force (16.7 kN). Tying a knot in a Dyneema® sling weakens it even further leading to sling failure in a factor 1 fall .

For perspective, most leader falls are between 4 – 7 kNs. Forces above 10kN will start to cause internal injuries.

For the full story read this excellent DMM article and watch the video for test results at the end.

http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/

Climb Safe.
Gareth

Black Diamonds Magnetic Innovation in store now

14:10am : 16.12.2012

Black Diamond Magnetron GridLock’s and Rocklock’s, super-fast, easy to use, lightweight, Locking Carabiners Reviewed.

New toys. I love new toys, just look at my gear wall at home to confirm this. The new Magnetron’s hit our shelves this week and I (we) just had to have one (one each actually). After a little bit of a play with them here is the nuts and bolts of it all.

Locking carabiners that uses magnetic power for locking, instead of the usual knurled screw-down sleeve. At less than 80g, they are nice and light, but still solidly built. To use, simply pinch the sides (brightly coloured for easy sighting) and squeeze open the arm, drop your rope in, let go, and it self locks. Very easy one-handed operation (none of this pull down, twist, pull up, dance around a maypole stuff) it is fast and simple and with no sharp edges to catch and damage your rope they’re like a dream with amazing new magnetic technology built in.

• Gate open clearance: 21mm
• Strength (major axis closed): 22 kN
• Strength (gate open): 8 kN
• Strength (minor axis): 7 kN

Happy climbing

Gareth the gear junky.

Hangoween is Coming

9.48am : 15.10.2012

Join us for fun and mask up for Hangoween, Pizza and Nori provided. Go to events on our facebook page to sign up! http://www.facebook.com/events/150300378448663/

 

 

THe Hangout Proshop is Now Online

9:32am : 04.09.2012

The Hangout Online Gear Shop

The Hangout has hosted a large range of climbing goods available for sale with  great discounted prices, for a couple of years now.  Our range has kept growing and now with over three dozen different brands available over hundreds of products, you can expect to find diversity along side some of the best known names and products in the climbing world.

To match in with our growth and for convenience to you, we now trade online as well as in store (click the link above to view our online store). We dream of our store continuing to grow and offering the best prices and products available. Items like The Beal Diablo 9.8mm (Unicore rope), The Beal Joker 9.1mm Golden Dry, The Evolv Elektra (women’s shoe) and the BD Aspect 2012 (a very sexy harness indeed) were added this week alone. Our growth is made possible via a couple of things, 1) our vision / dream and 2) our customers support. So its you guys that help grow our dreams and we extend a huge Thank you to one and all.

 

We are now a BLACK DIAMOND SPECIALIST DEALER!

8.48am : 14.08.2012

It is official: The Hangout and it’s staff are all climbing gear addicts! We stock many great brands, but have a particular interest in climbing products by Black Diamond. This addiction has been rewarded by The Hangout becoming one of two climbing gyms within Australia to be recognized as a Black Diamond Specialist Dealers. We are proud of this achievement and very happy to be able to stock so many quality climbing products by Black Diamond.

So what does this mean for our climbers?

It means that we can offer you a HUGE range of quality climbing gear at GREAT PRICES!

 

A little bit of info about the Black Diamond Company:

“Here at Black Diamond it’s all about climbing and skiing. We share the same experiences that you do on rock, ice and snow and these experiences push us to make the best gear possible for our worldwide family of climbers and skiers.

“What began with a backyard anvil and a hammer has grown into a global company with offices on three continents that’s not just for rock climbers, but one that stands for the spirit of the sports we live, their values and goals, past, present and future. Since 1957, our innovative gear designs have set the standards in numerous areas. This is partly the result of dedication, desire and diligence on the part of an incredible team of people. It’s also the result of each of us being climbers and skiers ourselves.

“We’re a company of users—it’s who we are. We’re the greatest dreamers about what could be, and the harshest of critics about what exists and because of this—the creation of Black Diamond is a process which will never end. The company today is more committed than ever, thanks to the many people here in the U.S., at Black Diamond Europe and at Black Diamond Asia whose limitless energy and hands-on involvement have created a promising future for all climbers and skiers worldwide.”