Wales

18/04/17

So a few months back I turned 50! For nostalgia’s sake and to the amusement of the current tenants, we went to the house I was born in, in Cardiff Wales and had a birthday apple on the front wall.

trainDalek Wales, besides being loaded with Torchwood & Doctor Who items of interest, railway stations with very long names and many castles from centuries and centuries ago is home to the Snowdonia mountains.

Snowdonia was going to just be a tourist trek and we did indeed see some beautiful places and scalable faces but a cherry on the cake was driving through a totally unknown area and jumping on the brakes at the sight of a sign that smelt of climbing: “DMM”. Founded in 1981 as Moorhouse Engineering in Bethesda, soon to become DMM and moving to Llanberis in 1986, the company celebrated 35 years of manufacturing in 2016. In 1981 the company employed just 4 people, and now thirty odd years later they are an important employer in the area with just over 150 men and women on the payroll.

 

DMM1factoryWe took the liberty of pulling in next to the quaint little building and the large factory and offices and after a while of nosing Around were introduced to Chris. Chris was a lovely man who works in the offices at DMM and was only too happy to take time out of his busy day and show us (unannounced), around an amazing climbers dream factory. Massive presses thumped down, torches blazed, metal blocks and rods were forged, pressed, bent and anodised into some of the best climbing gear in the world. Too many steps to jot down in a blog but what an exciting and brilliant place! We spent a good couple of hours going from base materials right through to the manual inspections and finishing tweaks. Family members who were travelling with us commented that at no point in our holiday had they seen Trace or myself smile nearly as much as we did while touring DMM!

DMM Mold DMM Cams
Blog7I thought it couldn’t get any better, but when leaving Chris pointed us to a time locked pub down the road where we went for a beer. The nostalgia written (literally) on the walls (and ceiling) was captivating. This was the training ground for a guy / team in the early 50’s you may of heard of before; Edmund Hillary. They trained in these mountains for something they eventually bagged a little on the bigger size, ….you know what I mean. There were ropes, axes, boots and so many other enchanting tools from yester year hanging like they had just been left there along with some very special signatures on the ceiling. It was an amazing find. If you ever find yourself in Wales I recommend exploring Snowdonia and the Pen-Y-Gwryd Hotel for a beverage, lunch and a little trip  into fantasy of times gone by.

    rope  Blog1  Blog4  Blog6 (1)

(click any of the images for a bigger view).

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Rope types and their falls explained:

Disclaimer: This is a brief view of ropes and there fall catching capabilities and is in no way complete, there is a lot more to know and understand before jumping on the sharp end. This is compiled with my knowledge and experience and should not be taken as gospel. Do your own research and study and always climb within your abilities and only with full knowledge of all of your equipment.

Ropes for lead climbing should only ever be dynamic. You should NEVER lead climb on semi-static rope; any lead fall on semi-static will likely put you in hospital or worse.

There are three types of Dynamic ropes:

The Single ropeSingle Rope

The most common, this rope is used as a single strand. It is best adapted to difficult routes which are fairly straight-line, easy routes without change-over belays, and where descent is not by abseil. It is in particular the rope for sport climbing.

Half ropes or DoublesHalf Ropes

A ‘rope’ formed of 2 strands used together of which the leader is tied into both but, unlike twin ropes, two seconds may each be tied into just one of the strands. The leader clips only one strand into each runner so as to reduce drag. Half ropes are recommended for mountaineering, wandering lines and long ascents where abseil descent is necessary. In addition they offer better protection against stonefall or falling on an arete; to limit the drag, and thus the fall factor, you can clip the strands separately

And Twin ropesTwin Ropes

These ropes are always used with the two strands together, remaining parallel. Each climber ties into both strands and these are always clipped together. Its advantage over a single rope is that it allows for abseils as long as the rope. It is lighter than half rope but does not allow for separate strand clipping.

TESTING:
All dynamic ropes have to be tested for conformity to the Standard EN 892 in a test tower at a fall factor 1.77 (see below for fall factors explained).

Single and twin ropes are tested with a mass of 80kg. A single rope, must resist at least 5 successive falls, and both strands of a twin rope combined, must resist at least 12 successive falls.

2. Half ropes are tested with a 55kg mass on one strand. It must resist 5 successive falls. Why 55 kg?Because ropes which hold 5 falls with 55kg in practice hold 2 falls with 80kg, which has been allowed as sufficient security for a half rope which is not used to hold repeated falls on one strand.

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*Factor fall explained: Generally only possible in multi-pitch climbing and whilst on lead, the fall factor( f ) is the ratio of the height ( h ) a climber falls before the climber’s rope begins to stretch and the rope length ( L ) available to absorb the energy of the fall.

f=h/L

Confused? (Ignoring rope stretch)

a) If you climb 5m above a belay placing gear at say 4m and fall you will fall 2m (1m to the piece of protection and 1 more below it) on 5m of rope.

f = 2/5

f = 0.4 Not necessarily a bad fall.

b) If you climb 5m above a belay without any gear placement and fall you will fall 10m (5 to the belay and 5 more below it) on just 5m of rope.

f = 10/5

f = 2 A factor 2 is the worst kind of fall you can apply to a rope (and belay) in normal climbing.

With factors in mind, always place gear or clip bolts as soon as possible when leaving a belay; it’s not the time to be thinking about running it out, not even just a little.

Climb Safe.

Gareth

Acknowledgments: Beal Planet, Wikipedia.

 

A Little History Lesson – Wolfgang Gullich.

Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992), was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany, and is widely considered to be one of the best sport climbers in history.

Wolfgang was responsible for 4 grade step-ups with the world’s first 8b(31) (Kanal Im Rücken, 1984), 8b+(32) (Punks In The Gym, Apr 1985), 8c(33) (Wall street, 1987), and 9a(35) (Action Directe, Aug 1991). He took climbing grades from 30 to 35 in 7 years, it was then 10 long years until Chris Sharma upped the grade to 36 with Realization, or Biographie.

The campus board was invented by Wolfgang Güllich in 1988 while he was training for a new route, Action Directe, which requires extreme dynamic finger strength. The first campus board was hung at a university in a gym called The Campus Centre. Hence the term “campus” has been applied to the name of the training board, training method, and style of climbing, or “campusing”.

He broke his back falling off the Master’s Edge at Millstone Quarry in Derbyshire, England but when he recovered climbed Separate Reality in Yosemite National Park, USA (1986). Climbing without a rope, he negotiated a twenty foot horizontal crack in an overhanging roof (as pictured).

He was also a climbing double for Sylvester Stallone in the movie Cliffhanger.

On August 29, 1992 Wolfgang’s car veered off the Autobahn between Munich and Nuremberg. Two days later he died in a hospital in Ingolstadt, never having regained consciousness.

Climbing lost a legend that day. Think of this man the next time you pull hard on our campus board.

 

Tech Tip.

I thought I would share a Tech Tip that was provided to me by none other than Australian hard man Nathan Hoette. It has opened my eyes considerably and although I knew the implications of falling on slings (internal injuries), I never knew how bad and how you could fail them so readily. I have been guilty of knotting my slings in the past but will avoid do it again. Please beware of standing up at the anchors when cleaning routes or dogging moves on slings.

Copied from DMM website :

Even a 60 cm, factor 1 fall on to an open Dyneema® sling can generate enough impact force (16.7 kN). Tying a knot in a Dyneema® sling weakens it even further leading to sling failure in a factor 1 fall .

For perspective, most leader falls are between 4 – 7 kNs. Forces above 10kN will start to cause internal injuries.

For the full story read this excellent DMM article and watch the video for test results at the end.

http://dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/

Climb Safe.
Gareth

 

Chris Sharma in Perth!

The day the world’s most adored and admired rock climbing star came to Perth!

Chris Sharma is such an admirable ambassador for the sport/lifestyle of climbing. He is humble, down to earth and a good bloke. On Wednesday night Chris described climbing, and his love for it, in a way that we all related to. He loves it for all the same reasons that we do!

Chris Sharma's Australian TourThe idea of THE GOD OF ROCK Chris Sharma coming to Perth was inconceivable ….or so we thought! When we heard that Chris was coming to Australia we were almost in disbelief. When we heard that his tour was going to include Western Australia we couldn’t contain ourselves.

Chris Sharma squeezing his "Hangout Hand Rock"!

On Wednesday 11th Sept 2013 the improbable came true! A few hundred West Australians sat in awe as Chris Sharma spoke about his life as a climber and shared photos and footage of his experiences. Following his talk Chris answered questions for about an hour.  It was wonderful ….but like insatiable kids in a candy store we didn’t want our “Sharma experience” to end, and we could have asked him questions for hours more. Fortunately those with VIP tickets were able to spend a few more hours in his company sipping wine and beer, eating snacks and talking about …..well climbing of course!

Living legend Chris Sharma (left), chats to WA climber & MC Logan Barber.

It was wonderful to have a fellow West Australian as MC for the evening.

Highly accomplished climber Logan Barber did an amazing job at introducing and talking to Chris. I am not quite sure how Logan remained so composed while talking to the most famous rock climber alive in front of an audience! I on the other hand was suddenly shy (which I don’t think has ever happened to me before J ) just shaking Chris’ hand and introducing myself!   I know that it sounds silly to be reduced to quivery knees and mousey voice when just meeting someone …..but I was just so in awe! Climbing is so much more than a “spot of exercise” and a hobby.  It positively influences  your life, your body and the way you look at ANY wall or vertical structure :) ! Climbing takes you to great places, pushes you to be better and stronger, and connects you with a wonderful community of great people. So meeting Chris Sharma was so much more meaningful to me than meeting a famous movie star or performer. I sense that most of the audience was equally as awestruck as I was. Instead of being our usual rowdy selves we all sat quietly grinning from ear to ear, in deep respect and admiration as Chris spoke. Our parents would have been proud of, (and no doubt mystified by), our “best behaviour”!  :)

So what do you do when the Chris

Sharma night comes to an end? You climb! People were so amped about climbing that we basically had no other choice other than to go and open The Hangout for a late night session. At 1.30am when Gareth and I left the gym (still smiling), there were still people climbing :) .

A little bit of lead climbing to go with the bouldering, top-roping and Schmooling!

Thank you to all the guys from Indoor Climbing Productions and Walltopia who brought the biggest legend of climbing to Australia! Thank you Chris for sharing your experiences with us!ICP & Walltopia

 

 

We are proud to use and stock Indoor Climbing Productions products. They are Australian made and awesome!

Thank you Indoor Climbing Productions and Walltopia!