• Wolfgang Gullich

    A Little History Lesson – Wolfgang Gullich.

    18:00 :: 18/01/2013

    Wolfgang Güllich (24 October 1960 – 31 August 1992), was born in Ludwigshafen, Germany, and is widely considered to be one of the best sport climbers in history.

    Wolfgang was responsible for 4 grade step-ups with the world’s first 8b(31) (Kanal Im Rücken, 1984), 8b+(32) (Punks In The Gym, Apr 1985), 8c(33) (Wall street, 1987), and 9a(35) (Action Directe, Aug 1991). He took climbing grades from 30 to 35 in 7 years, it was then 10 long years until Chris Sharma upped the grade to 36 with Realization, or Biographie.

    The campus board was invented by Wolfgang Güllich in 1988 while he was training for a new route, Action Directe, which requires extreme dynamic finger strength. The first campus board was hung at a university in a gym called The Campus Centre. Hence the term “campus” has been applied to the name of the training board, training method, and style of climbing, or “campusing”.

    He broke his back falling off the Master’s Edge at Millstone Quarry in Derbyshire, England but when he recovered climbed Separate Reality in Yosemite National Park, USA (1986). Climbing without a rope, he negotiated a twenty foot horizontal crack in an overhanging roof (as pictured).

    He was also a climbing double for Sylvester Stallone in the movie Cliffhanger.

    On August 29, 1992 Wolfgang’s car veered off the Autobahn between Munich and Nuremberg. Two days later he died in a hospital in Ingolstadt, never having regained consciousness.

    Climbing lost a legend that day. Think of this man the next time you pull hard on our campus board.